Any brand · Water heater · plumbing · Symptom
No hot water in the house
likely causes and what to check
What it means
Start with one question: is the heater gas or electric? The two paths share almost nothing, and the safe checks differ from the first minute.
Both types have exactly two or three homeowner checks. Everything past them is a stop line — this page says so plainly, and that is the point.
Likely causes, ranked
- Pilot out (gas)a draft or a dirty pilot orifice takes the pilot out more often than any part fails
- Tripped breaker (electric)an electric tank runs on a dedicated two-pole breaker, and it trips for real reasons
- High-limit switch tripped (electric)the reset behind the upper panel does one job — it trips when the tank overheated
- Failed upper element or thermostat (electric)the upper element leads the heat; when it dies, nothing downstream runs
- Failed thermocouple (gas)the sensor that holds the gas valve open — the usual part after the pilot won't stay lit
Ranked for this water heater · plumbing in general. Answer three questions inside a case and the list gets shorter.
Verdict, in general terms
A thermocouple is $10–$25 and an element $25–$50 as parts. A tank past 10 years old with a leak is always a replace — a leaking tank cannot be repaired. When the fix is a part inside the tank, see the stop line below.
If you smell gas anywhere near the heater: leave the house, and call the gas company from outside. Don't operate light switches, and don't relight anything.
The checks, in order
3 checksCheck 1 — Identify the heater and read its state
2 minutes · no tools
This eliminates: which path you are on.
The step-by-step opens inside a case.
Check 2 — Relight the pilot by the tank's own instructions
10 minutes · no tools
This eliminates: pilot out (gas).
The step-by-step opens inside a case.
Check 3 — Check the thermostat dial
1 minute · no tools
This eliminates: vacuum or holiday setting, a knocked dial.
The step-by-step opens inside a case.
The inside of an electric tank is live 240V even when the elements look fine, and every gas control past the pilot is a licensed-technician job. Both are the stop line. What you've already learned still cuts the bill down.
- What to tell the technician
- "No hot water. I checked the breaker and the thermostat dial, and the pilot lights but won't stay lit." — say the equivalent of what your checks showed, in those words.
- What to ask
- Ask whether they'll test the element and thermostat (electric) or the thermocouple and gas control (gas), and whether the quote includes the part.
- What a fair price looks like
- An element or thermostat job typically lands at $180–$350 installed. A gas control valve runs $350–$600. A new tank installed is $1,400–$2,500 depending on type.
Stuck, or want a person?
Ty Fletcher answers a Second Opinion by email within 24 hours — 10 years of construction and maintenance, not a licensed technician. You send photos and the model plate; the answer names the next thing to do, or the stop line.
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